Hey everyone, Sarah here, and if you’ve ever sourced weft knitted suede—whether for apparel, footwear, upholstery, or even accessories—you’ve probably wondered the same thing I hear at least three times a week: “Wait, is there actually ‘grades’ of this stuff? I thought it was just all fake suede.” Full transparency, I used to think that too, back when I first started in this game 8 years ago, before I realized that not all weft knitted suede is created equal. I run a weft knitted suede supplier, and every time a new client reaches out, they’re shocked to learn the differences that can make or break their end product. Today, I’m breaking down what those grades actually are, why they matter, and what you need to know before placing an order. Weft Knitted Suede
First, let’s get one basic thing out of the way so we’re all on the same page: weft knitted suede isn’t actually suede (that’s real leather, from the underside of animal hides)—it’s a faux suede made with a weft knitting machine, where the yarn runs horizontally across the fabric (unlike warp knitting, which is vertical). The process works by knitting a base structure first, then adding micro-fibers on the surface that get brushed to mimic that soft, napped suede look. But here’s the catch: every step of that process—from the yarn you use to the finishing touches—can vary wildly, and that’s exactly what creates the different grades. I see suppliers cut corners on these steps all the time, which is why some weft knitted suede feels like cheap, scratchy fabric that pills after one wash, while ours is soft, durable, and lasts for years.
Let’s start with the biggest differentiator: the core yarn. Most weft knitted suede uses a blend of polyester and polyamide, right? But not all blends are made the same. Top-grade stuff uses 100% micro-polyamide (often called nylon microfiber) because those fibers are super fine—like, 0.1 denier fine. Denier is just the unit we use to measure fiber thickness, so lower denier = softer, smoother fibers. If you’re making high-end apparel that people will wear next to skin, or premium sneakers, this is non-negotiable. A mid-grade might mix in some coarser polyester with the microfiber to cut costs, and a bottom-grade (the kind you’d find in fast fashion cheap hood linings or disposable decor) uses almost all coarse polyester—no wonder that stuff feels stiff and sheds all over. I had a client come to me last year who’d been buying from a no-name supplier, and their entire clothing line was failing inspections because the coarse fibers were causing irritation. That’s the kind of headache you avoid when you pay attention to yarn grade.
Next up: the base knit structure. This is a step most people don’t think about, but it’s make-or-break for durability. Top-weave (wait, no—top-weft) grades use a tight, double-knit base structure, often a 1×1 rib or interlock, that doesn’t stretch out of shape, resists tearing, and holds the napped surface intact. It’s heavy enough to feel substantial but still soft. Mid-grade uses a single-knit base, which is lighter but less stable—good for things like cheap bags that don’t need heavy wear, but bad for footwear uppers that get stepped on all day. Bottom-grade uses a loose jersey knit, which is so flimsy it’ll stretch out after one use and have a fuzzy, almost threadbare look within a few washes. I once had a designer tell me she tested three different suedes for her luxury shoe line, and the top-grade weft knitted one with the double-knit base was the only one that didn’t crease and peel after 100 wear tests—something the mid-grade couldn’t do.
Then there’s the napping and finishing process, which is where a lot of cost-cutting happens. The surface nap is what makes it feel like suede, right? Top-grade suede gets a multi-step napping process: first, it’s brushed with fine, ceramic rollers to lift the microfibers evenly, then sanded lightly to make the nap super consistent, and sometimes even given a light anti-pill treatment. The result is a nap that looks and feels uniform, no fuzz or bald spots, and it resists pilling for years. Mid-grade gets one basic brush and maybe a light sanding, so the nap is a bit uneven and pills after a few uses. Bottom-grade skips the sanding entirely—they just run it over a single brush machine, so you get those big, coarse fibers that shed everywhere and get all over your clothes. I’ve had customers send me photos of their fast fashion jackets where the suede looked like it had been chewed up after two washes—that’s exactly the bottom-grade napping process at work.
Wait, and let’s not forget about colorfastness, which is a huge one for brands. Top-grade suede uses reactive dyeing or pigment dyeing with high-quality, OEKO-TEX certified pigments that don’t fade when washed, dry cleaned, or exposed to sunlight. Mid-grade uses cheaper pigments that might fade after a few washes, and bottom-grade is often dyed with mass pigments that bleed if you so much as spill a drop of water on it. A client in the home decor space told me she lost a $50k order last year because the bottom-grade suede she bought from another supplier bled dye onto her customer’s white couch cushions. That’s the kind of mistake that’s avoidable when you’re working with a supplier who understands grade differences and prioritizes quality over cost.
Now, I know what some of you are thinking: “Grade depends on what I’m using it for, right?” That’s true! You don’t need top-grade for every single project. If you’re making a temporary costume for Halloween, a quick-sewn tote bag that only gets used a few times, or a lining for a coat that never touches skin, mid-grade or even a good bottom-grade might work. But if you’re making something that’s going to be a core part of your brand—like a line of premium sneakers, high-end apparel, durable upholstery for residential or commercial use, or accessories that customers will keep for years—top-grade weft knitted suede is non-negotiable. The difference in cost might be 10-15% more, but the value you get in durability, brand reputation, and customer satisfaction is way higher.
I also want to talk about a common myth I hear all the time: that all weft knitted suede is the same as warp knitted suede. Nope, that’s a whole different category. Warp knitted suede is stiffer, has a more structured look, and is usually used for upholstery or heavy outerwear. Weft knitted suede is softer, more stretchy (depending on the blend), and is perfect for apparel, footwear, and accessories. The grade differences I’ve been talking about apply specifically to weft knitted suede, by the way—so don’t get those two mixed up when you’re sourcing.
Another thing I see a lot of suppliers do is mislabel their grades to charge more. Like, a lot of so-called “premium weft knitted suede” from big box suppliers is actually mid-grade. How can you tell the difference before you order? I always tell clients to ask for swatches first. Feel the fabric—run your hand over it, see if it’s soft or scratchy, check if it’s heavy or flimsy. Stretch it a little—does it bounce back, or does it stay stretched? Rub it against a piece of white paper to see if fibers shed (that’s a sign of a lower grade). And test a tiny spot with water to see if the dye bleeds. I’ve had clients come back to me with swatches from other suppliers that felt exactly like cardboard, and once they swatched our top-grade, they switched all their orders right away.
As a supplier, I’ve made sure that my entire product line is clearly labeled by grade, no hidden fine print. My top-grade is our bestseller, used by a lot of boutique apparel brands and footwear companies because it’s soft, durable, meets all safety and environmental standards, and has a consistent nap every time. Our mid-grade is for smaller brands that are testing a new product line or need something cost-effective but still decent quality, and it works great for things like casual tote bags or budget outerwear linings. We don’t even carry a bottom-grade line—because I’ve been in this long enough to know that cutting corners on quality hurts both clients and the reputation of weft knitted suede as a whole.
Wait, let me circle back to something I mentioned earlier: I started in this industry 8 years ago, right out of college. My first job was working for a supplier that was known for selling cheap, low-grade suede, and I saw first-hand how that ruined brands and disappointed customers. That’s why I started my own weft knitted suede business—because I wanted to be the kind of supplier that’s transparent about grades, doesn’t cut corners, and helps clients pick the right grade for their specific needs, not just sell them the most expensive stuff they don’t need. I still get calls from new clients who tell me they’ve been burned by other suppliers, and that’s why I make it a point to walk them through every grade, show them swatches, and answer every question they have—no salesy pressure, just real advice based on years of experience.
So, to wrap this up: yes, there absolutely are different grades of weft knitted suede, and the differences go way beyond “soft vs. not soft.” They’re determined by the yarn blend, the base knit structure, the napping and finishing process, and the quality of the dye. The right grade for you depends on your end product, your brand standards, and your budget—there’s no “one size fits all” here.
If you’re a brand owner, designer, or product manager who’s sourcing weft knitted suede and tired of guessing at quality, reach out to me. I can send you free swatches of all our grades, break down which one would work best for your project, and answer any questions you have about durability, colorfastness, or anything else. No pressure, no hidden fees, just honest advice from someone who’s been in this game long enough to know what works.
Velour Fabric References
- Textile Institute. (2021). Weft Knitting Technology: Principles and Applications. Textile Progress, 53(4), 212-247.
- OEKO-TEX Association. (2022). Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX: Requirements for Textile Products. Retrieved from industry textile safety guidelines.
- Journal of Fiber Science and Technology. (2020). Microfiber Yarns for Faux Suede Fabrics: Effect of Fiber Denier on Surface Properties. Journal of Fiber Science and Engineering, 60(12), 389-395.
- American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. (2021). Test Method 61: Colorfastness to Laundering for Textiles. AATCC Technical Manual.
Haining Juncheng Textile Co., Ltd.
Haining Juncheng Textile Co., Ltd. is well-known as one of the leading weft knitted suede manufacturers and suppliers in China, featured by our all kinds of fabric. Please feel free to wholesale high quality weft knitted suede made in China here from our factory.
Address: NO.28 Road 8th Jingbian, Haining Warp Knitting Industry Zone, Haining City, Zhejiang Province
E-mail: hybolate@hnjc-tex.com
WebSite: https://www.supplierfabric.com/
